Testing, testing

There is no way I can tell from previous measurements (before I added the weight of the drivetrain) what the stance of the car would be like. Stance is everything, so even though it was a pain, I pulled out the car body, hoisted it in the air and lowered it on the chassis (my ceiling mounted hoist for my IHC Scout roof did a great job).

Once on the chassis I found a number of items I could have known no other way. First I added about 300 lbs to the back of the car to compensate for passengers and fuel. This actually had the car sitting level, which is a good thing.

However, with the body in place I can see a number of modifications that have to be made. First, the stock intake manifold and carb are too high. I'd intended on changing that before, but realize now it's a necessity. Options range from a twin intake manifold with Stromberg carbs (the hotrod set up) to an aftermarket intake that will accept a Holley 4 barrel. This later may have a lower profile, and would fit nicely under the hood. Not as classic as twin 2 barrels, it would produce just as much hp, and yet be more economical since it would be progressive in nature.

The generator will have to be mounted to the side of the engine (brackets are available for either side), and in the change I'm now fairly certain I will build the car as a 12v vehicle (easier to buy electrical parts for). Next the mechanical fuel pump should go, replaced by an electrical unit which would be more consistent, and reduce the potential for vapor lock. Finally, though it won't be period correct, I'm going to remove the conventional fan, and replace it with two pusher type electric fans in front of the radiator. There simply isn't enough room between the hood and the front cross bar to have a fan. These last two modifications will not only make the engine work better but will make the engine bay look much cleaner.

I've got to raise the engine up about 1/2" on my mock mounts, then adjust the torsion bars for another 1/2" to get a more appropriate clearance under the engine pan. Easy, and now I can further see that my plan for making an engine support from tube with angle iron mounts will work, and will allow me to remove the engine with 4 bolts down through the bottom.

More critical is the front solid axle. It will have to be cut in the middle and 4" added to it. This will mean relocating the mounts for the torsion bar levers (though this can be done simply by locating the inner mount ear on the outer side. Doing this will mean I will need to find or make up new steering links as well, though that shouldn't be too hard since the old ends can be used.

Lastly, I can now see how I can create a frame stiffener by installing a mini rollbar behind the dashboard. This will create a stronger frame, and reduce cowl shake issues. I will probably add a full size rollbar behind the driver to add strength in the back portion of the car as well.